Radio journalist, wife and mother of three girls. I've never had a gap year or done any proper travelling, so why would I give up a perfectly respectable job for a year to live in a VW campervan?No toilet, no shower and no hairdrier - how bad can it get?

Wednesday 27 October 2010

I've had the same jeans on for four days now ....

This week we have acquired new additions to our travelling lives.

The first – last Sunday were our anti malaria tablets. Cloraquine – taken once a week for about 7 weeks. We’re right on the cusp of the malarial area, and the malaria season but it was still recommended that we take them. Edie had an unfortunate stomach reaction and found herself running to the loo quite regularly after the first dose. A quick email to our fantastic practise nurse in Cropredy revealed that this was quite normal – and offered a couple of alternatives. Since then we have all had the same problem to varying degrees. Sim, Ella and Bethan have had colds this week, nasty ones too, so it’s been a bit of a week. 

Tuesday was a particular highlight when we turned up at a new campsite, and I spent most of the night in the toilets with one or other of the girls who was feeling sick/having stomach cramps/diarrhoea. I successfully managed to help Edie get past our sleeping neighbours before she threw up in a bush, and found some indigestion tablets for Ella before falling into bed just before dawn. Seconds later the first call to prayer of the day started … it was a long night.

The second (and very welcome) addition to our lives was a washing machine. Oh I bet you’re impressed aren’t you? We got to know a South African couple, Neil and Silvie, who wowed us with their mod cons. So much so, we had to copy the washing idea. You basically get a big plastic drum with a lid, shove your dirty clothes in with some water (hot or cold – you choose depending on the weather) and some detergent – then simply strap it to the roof of the vehicle. The motion of driving washes the clothes. Brilliant. The journey we took that day was really bumpy, perfect for the clothes. Then you have the fun of emptying out the water and seeing just how dirty it is. We invented other cycles. Pop down into the village (about a mile) – and do your delicates. Cover the drum in a black plastic bag and you get a hot wash. Still need to sort out the tumble drier though …



And now we wait for a very important addition -  our Syrian visas. After a nervous call from the Embassy on Friday, we’re hoping they’ll be ready by the end of the week. (Read Sim’s blog for the full gory story) It’s been a trying time. We have been heartened by the fact we are not alone, and everyone we meet seems to have problems, but it’s still annoying to be stuck waiting. 

I won’t bore you with the months of planning, but in case you’re wondering how we chose our route, it really was through months of research. My one early proviso for the trip was that we didn’t visit anywhere ending in ‘stan’ which instantly cut out a huge swathe of the world. (Apologies to the Uzbekistan tourist board.) With this in mind, we looked at going south from Sicily – a route that would have taken us through Tunisia, Libya and Egypt but for us, was prohibitively expensive. To take a vehicle outside of Europe you need a Carnet de Passage (export and passport for the van) – which costs an arm and a leg. Also with Libya, they are more than happy for you to visit, but insist you pay for a guide all the time you’re there which includes their accommodation. Pricy. 

So we opted for over the top through Greece and Turkey. (It’s amazing how much of the world you have to throw out with only a year to get round it.) Before we left we kept grumbling about having to drive through Turkey, but ironically it has turned out to be an absolute gem, so every cloud …. Keep your fingers crossed for the visas, and when you chuck a load in your washing machine – spare a thought for our drum on top of Penny. What the other cars think when they see a load of smalls sloshing around on top of a camper van is anyone’s guess.

Friday 1 October 2010

Stranger in a strange land ...


As you probably know, we've been planning this trip for about 18 months. You get a lot of time to think about stuff during that time, and not just how many threadworm tablets you might need for a year. One of our biggest challenges was what the girls would get out of the year away and how we could maintain their schoolwork. It was with a certain amount of trepidation that we arranged meetings with their headteachers in November last year to talk them through the plans. The reaction we got from them was quite unexpected. 

Not only were they supportive and excited about what the girls would learn while away, they were keen to keep in touch and use the girls experiences for their fellow pupils. In fact when we did parents' evening this year, it was hard to get them to talk about the girls' progress because they wanted to talk about the trip and enthuse about what a great opportunity it was for the girls. We were surprised to say the least but delighted. Ella's secondary school has a technology specialism, and they were keen to try out the distance learning programme they have for kids who can't or won't come to school for a variety of reasons. (BBC South Today did a lovely piece on this - watch it at www.beatnikbeatles.com in the press section).

So buoyed up by the positive attitude we had from the teachers (and I'm pleased to say it was 100% thumbs up from all of them) we talked about how seeing these places as living history would benefit the girls. But we wanted them to get that experience you don't get in text books, having to interact with people in different countries and cultures. 

I'm aware that sounds terribly Guardian reader, I don't mean it to - I've been way out of comfort zone so many times so far - so it's as much about all of us experiencing that. I smiled when Sim demanded his money back at a swimming pool a few days ago because they hadn't told him everyone needed to wear hats. Apart from 'una caffee americano e una latte macchiato' he speaks no Italian. You won't be surprised to hear he got a full refund (and they spoke no English) 

And it's not just about the language, it's about soaking up the differences. So when Italians you've never met before invite you for dinner, you go with the flow and graciously accept.  Perhaps it's to the girls' credit that they weren't terribly fazed when we accepted. Dinner at strangers' houses is probably among the more tame things their parents have subjected them to. The Italians love children, and ours were no exception. They were 'bella, bella.' Bizarrely Stefano's mum had already seem us having coffee that morning in the city and remarked in Italian when she met us that night that she had already seen the beautiful family. Luckily she couldn't speak a word of English otherwise she would have heard Edie sitting at the cafe table instructing us all in intricate detail how she has a successful poo in a 'squatter' toilet with careful aim and minute adjustments. That's my girl.

Bethan has got sick of me saying 'this is why we're doing this trip' every time we're in a strange situation. To be honest, she's got me weighed up. Apparently when I say this, my voice goes into a high pitched, slightly manic tone. I realised it was my defence mechanism - the kids don't need any re-assurance, but apparently I still do....